Method
Cut aubergines into 3cm wedges. Toss with 1 tsp fine salt in a colander and leave for 20 minutes. Pat thoroughly dry with kitchen paper before cooking — moisture is the enemy of a proper golden crust.
Heat 3 tbsp coconut oil in a wide, heavy pan over medium-high. Fry the aubergine in batches — don't crowd the pan — until deep golden on each cut face, 4–5 minutes per side. Set aside on a plate.
Reduce the heat to medium. Add another tablespoon of coconut oil to the same pan. When shimmering, add the mustard seeds and wait for the pop — about 30 seconds. Add the curry leaves (stand back — they spit), then the broken dried chillies. Fry for 15 seconds until fragrant.
Add the sliced onions. Cook, stirring occasionally, until deep golden brown throughout — 15 to 18 minutes. The colour here is the flavour foundation. Don't rush this stage.
Add the garlic, ginger and green chillies. Stir and cook for 2–3 minutes until the raw smell lifts.
Add all the spices: turmeric, Kashmiri chilli powder, coriander, cumin — and the full 2 tsp of cracked black pepper. Stir for 1 minute until the oil turns red from the chilli and the kitchen smells appropriately serious.
Add the tomatoes. Cook on medium heat, pressing them down occasionally, until they break down into the base — about 8 minutes. The sauce should look thick and dark at this point.
Pour in the coconut milk. Stir to combine and bring to a gentle simmer. Cook for 5 minutes until the sauce is fragrant and slightly thickened.
Return the fried aubergine to the pan. Fold it in carefully — you want it to absorb the sauce without dissolving. Simmer gently, uncovered, for 10 minutes.
Taste and adjust salt. Finish with an extra generous crack of black pepper directly over the pan, and fresh curry leaves if you have them. Serve immediately with appam or basmati.